Having been in a similar place around the same age, the things that helped me were: confiding in friends if you can, a therapist, finding the right medicine, and working on making things better one small, manageable step at a time.

Regarding medicine I know there are lots of stereotypes about what taking medicine to help with mental health issues is like, but I urge you not to write it off nor to give up if one medication doesn’t work for you. It’s a process, and one you need to work with a doctor with to find the right fit for you. Also, medicine won’t magically fix everything on its own, it’s just a little bit of help on the road to finding a complete solution.

Ultimately there are lots of good recommendations here. What works for you is going to be unique, and it’s something you’ll have the best luck with if you get some help.

Impossible to say, could be the app is doing something funky, could be iOS, could be lotta things.

I will note, my preferred solution is to do none of the above, and I only do split DNS for one particular service. I much prefer just using an always on Wireguard VPN that is set to only route traffic to my internal subnets and to use my internal DNS server. Then I just use internal names. Wireguard basically runs at line rate on my setup, so half the time I don’t even turn it off at home. This also gives you the option to use DNS ad blocking (eg adguard) on the go.

Hmm, caching has never caused problems with split DNS for me, but it’s really hard to debug what was going on with your setup. Split DNS is really common and is the preferred way to solve this, so most browsers have logic to handle it. You might have had something misconfigured, but unfortunately it’s really hard to diagnose.

AKA, split DNS. Doing it this way is a bit cleaner than hairpin NAT as mentioned in other comments, but both options work fine in a home network.

I mean the original lawsuit was for aggressively bundling Internet Explorer and kneecapping other browsers. Which sure sounds a lot like a minor variation on what they’ve been doing with Edge and Bing for a while now, without consequences. Antitrust enforcement is not something I have a lot of confidence in for the foreseeable future.

Hardware backdoors are also possible in the silicon, and are probably some of the most dangerous. Fortunately also probably some of the most sophisticated and difficult to introduce.

Not fully, there are still places a backdoor could be hidden (and that’s disregarding the possibility of backdoors in OpenWRT, which just recently fended off its own supply chain attack), but I’d sure trust it more.

The thing to keep in mind is that the more sophisticated and difficult to detect a backdoor is, the more valuable it is. And therefore, the less likely it is to ever be used against a normal person. So getting rid of blatantly buggy and insecure software, which TP-Link unfortunately has a bit of a reputation for, goes a long way. And not to pick on TP-Link, evidence suggests many/most home routers are riddled with vulnerabilities.

The message you’re reading applies to the checkbox above for encryption, not the preferences url. The preferences key only needs to be set if you want to encrypt the configuration URL, it doesn’t affect what OP wants to do.

My memory is a bit fuzzy because I switched to Searxng after playing with Whoogle briefly, but I thought Whoogle stored preferences in a cookie or something similar; the preferences URL is for when you want to transfer the preferences for your current machine to another. So OP is misunderstanding what it’s for.

OP: if your preferences aren’t sticking, are you maybe blocking cookies entirely or something? I’m pretty sure you shouldn’t need to do anything with the preferences URL for your preferences to stick if everything is set up correctly, it’s only for transferring your preferences to another machine.

RCV was also on the ballot in Colorado, but for some reason they bundled it with a “jungle primary” for governor and a bunch of other seats, where the four choices on the ballot for governor in the general election would be the top four from the ranked choice primaries, regardless of party (so you could end up with four options from the same party in theory). The latter addition was pretty unpopular with both parties, who put out tons of messaging against it and especially conflated it with RCV. It got voted down with a significant margin.

I’m not opposed to either measure, but I’m really struggling to understand why they rolled the two together into one ballot initiative instead of separating it. Alas, I’m just a lowly voter not privy to such advanced political reasoning. Fortunately most of Colorado’s other ballot initiatives went well, at least according to my preferences.

No, I used it with Alot mostly in the terminal. Can’t really speak to the front ends, I was kind of assuming you don’t need to search your old emails that often.

As another poster pointed out, it sounds like you want more of a mail search and archival tool than a mail server. I would suggest you pull the emails in maildir format from Google Takeout, and then index/search them with the amazing Notmuch. Notmuch is way more capable than Gmail search ever has been. Look at the Arch Wiki page page as well for info, the official docs are a bit obtuse but it’s not actually hard to use.

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Not sure if it tracks like your actual portfolio breakdown, it might have access to that info but for Actual Budget it just shows the balance on the account.

Has worked really well for me. Like I mentioned I’ve had a couple instances where the banks change their login flow and I had to open a support ticket to get it fixed, but they (SimpleFIN) were very responsive in working on it when I opened a support request and had it fixed within a couple days. Two of my accounts also have to be re-authenticated every time I wanna pull data into Actual, but that’s also the banks’ fault and it’s not that big of a deal to do.

As for integration with Actual is basically flawless and just works. Setup is super easy, just paste in a token from SimpleFIN and boom you see all the accounts you have linked and can attach them to accounts in Actual. Sync is rock solid too, I don’t have any issues with it messing up transactions with duplicates etc.

It varies by bank but for all mine you have to use the username and password unfortunately. My understanding is that it’s just how the underlying bank APIs work in general, because that’s what I have to do when I link accounts for my banks elsewhere too, not just in SimpleFIN. I don’t think they actually store your credentials though, I think it proxies it to the bank login and then caches a token. You can probably ask their support about the details if you’re concerned, they have been pretty responsive to me and willing to answer technical questions.

It does support investment accounts, I have my retirement and investment accounts in there. It supports just about every account I have, actually, credit cards included which is super handy. I think it’s all read-only access through, so you can only use it to import data not make new transactions.

In the US it has integration with SimpleFIN. SimpleFIN isn’t free but it’s pretty cheap ($1.50/mo) and supports most banks out there, even my obscure local credit union. It works pretty well, though sometimes the banks fuck with stuff and seem hell bent on breaking any kind of API access, but SimpleFIN support was really responsive for me to get it fixed when it happened. I do also have to reauthenticate my bank every day when I want to sync, but that’s also just the banks being assholes and isn’t too bad to do.

This is the paradox of polling, there’s no way to tell. Either could be better, both could be wrong, both could be right. There is no such thing as a poll with no bias, because the only way to take a tryly unbiased poll is to know the outcome of the race a priori.

Zwave is irritating to migrate, in theory the configuration is stored on the stick/radio but in reality it only stores some basic info and the pairing keys. You end up needing to re-interview everything for Home Assistant to know what it’s talking to. Last time I had to do it I ended up just resetting and repairing everything from scratch. I think the secure pairings in the newer Zwave revisions also has some quirks to migrate.

In my experience the biggest hurdle to Zigbee devices is figuring out how to get them into pairing mode or proximity when pairing. Most of my headaches have been with it being unclear how to get them into pairing mode (Phillips bulbs are finnicky to pair unless you have a Hue remote, which will reset devices near it by holding the On+Off buttons down near the device you want to reset), or with devices wanting to be paired in close physical proximity to the root coordinator. For the latter, some devices seem to only want to pair if you’re within a few meters of the Zigbee base, whereas others are perfectly happy to pair to whatever the nearest coordinator it can talk to. Xiaomi and Samsung devices seemed to be the main offenders for that one.

It’s a lot smoother nowadays though, as Zigbee has become a lot more standardized. It’s been a while since I had any new Zigbee devices give me trouble setting up.